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JUNE 1, 2001 VOL.27 NO.22

Forget Politics. Go Shopping
Amid the daily turmoil, Indonesia's middle class is spending like never before, boosting the economy and transforming the retail landscape
By SIMON MONTLAKE in Jakarta for Asiaweek


As riot police wearily take up positions around Jakarta for yet another week of political protests, Budi Nasution goes through his shopping list in the air-conditioned comfort of a Carrefour hypermarket in the central business district. Chocolate milk, instant noodles, chicken drumsticks on special offer . . . and did he remember shampoo? The 36-year-old businessman and his wife finally push the loaded cart to the counter. The cashier totes up their purchases and swipes Nasution's direct-debit card. "They have the best selection of products here and they sell at good prices," he says happily. "I don't even bother going to the traditional market anymore."

Despite Indonesia's political troubles, its estimated 30 million middle- and upper-class consumers are enjoying shopping like never before. Personal consumption was a key driver in last year's 4.8% GDP growth, with the Indonesian Retailers Association reporting a 22% surge in store takings to 28.6 trillion rupiah ($3.4 billion) — a return to pre-Asian crisis levels for modern retail stores. Spending on packaged food items was even 10% higher in real terms than in 1997. There was a 4% decrease in retail sales in April as the rupiah fell against the dollar due to moves by parliament to impeach President Abdurrahman Wahid. But retailers remain upbeat. "We believe we will see similar growth this year as last year," says Kus Prodjolalido, executive director of the 280-strong retailers' group.

His optimism rests on a fundamental shift in consumer behavior. Indonesia's middle-class shoppers are becoming more like their counterparts elsewhere in Asia: market-savvy, trend-conscious, and demanding. Sales at high-end boutiques are also up, and car purchases are back to pre-1997 levels. "Indonesia has been opening up after Suharto [stepped down as president in 1998], so people are more exposed to the rest of the world," says Berndt Soderbom, country manager for Indonesia of advertising giant Leo Burnett. "They absorb trends much faster. Their lifestyles are changing, and part of the change is shopping in supermarkets and hypermarkets rather than wet markets. It's not a big jump [in a total population of more than 210 million], but a change [among 30 million middle-class consumers] can have a big impact."

The winners are the seven Jakarta hypermarkets owned by France's Carrefour. The company declines to reveal financial results, but analysts estimate its annual sales exceeded $150 million last year. Carrefour is the most popular shop among well-off consumers in Jakarta because of its wide variety of quality products at competitive prices. In a survey by international consultant McKinsey in late 1999, a year after the first Carrefour hypermarkets opened, 23% of respondents said the French retailer was their market of choice. Only 17% picked local supermarket chain Hero while 8% chose Matahari, another supermarket.

Carrefour opened its first outlet in October 1998, just five months after bloody riots forced Suharto to resign. Executives at the Paris headquarters had felt extra nervous because retailers were among the victims of the violence — Matahari, owned by the ethnic Chinese Riady family, had four outlets razed to the ground. But 1998 was also the year when the International Monetary Fund laid down tough conditions for a multibillion dollar rescue package, including a pledge that Indonesia throw open its doors to foreign retailers.

Carrefour decided its European strategy of opening outlets in out-of-town locations with plenty of parking wouldn't work in Indonesia. Asia's crowded urban areas require stores served by public transport. So the company focused on sites in the central business district and shopping malls, which had become cheaper in the aftermath of the violence. It also went local. Its 8,000-sqm stores, about four times the size of the typical Hero outlet, stocked more Indonesian-made goods than its rivals. No baguettes or Bordeaux here. Instead there are fresh prawns and leafy vegetables, as well as non-food items like soap and shampoo that account for 60% of total sales. And the stores are cheap — an important factor in a country where the average per capita income is still only $617.

Hero is fighting back. It will replicate Carrefour's formula in a 10,000-sqm hypermarket that will open later this year in a yet-to-be-announced populous residential district in Jakarta. The store will be called Giant, the brand name of Singapore and Malaysian hypermarkets operated by Hong Kong's Dairy Farm. Hero is counting on Dairy Farm, which owns 32% of its stock, to equip its executives and workers with specialized skills to run mega stores. "I'm confident we can bring the [Giant] concept over here," says company president Ipung Kurnia. Giant will compete directly with Carrefour on pricing and the variety and quality of the mostly local goods it will sell.

Kurnia is wary of repeating Matahari's failure. The competing chain opened five Mega M hypermarkets in the mid-1990s, but closed them two years ago because its people could not run them like the low-margin, high-volume operations hypermarkets are supposed to be. Says Matahari senior executive Danny Konjongian: "We won't go head-to-head on pricing with Carrefour anymore." Matahari has reverted to its supermarket-within-a-department-store format. But it cannot stand idly by. The shift in middle-class spending could turn into a full-blown retail revolution when — or if —stability finally returns to Indonesia.

    

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